8th journey to the Barents Sea, June 25th- July 26th, 2008
Report on a birding trip
Illustrations on
http://picasaweb.google.com/lutzluecker
http://picasaweb.google.com/lutz6lucker
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/lutz6lucker
http://www.dailymotion.com/lutz6lucker
Lutz Lücker 5, Fort-L'Ecluse – CH-1213 Pt.-Lancy/Geneva / Switzerland
Introduction (same as in 2002-2007):
Travel :
By car from Geneva. Petrol less expensive in Sweden, most expensive in Norway.
Crossed Baltic Sea at Fehmarn (Puttgarden/Rödby) and Helsingör.
Beware! In late July, waiting queues in Rödby can be long except at night; better use the bridge near Odense.
There are lots of automated petrol stations in Fennoscandia but they do not all accept foreign credit cards. Better have a few small banknotes ready, especially in Finland...!
Maps :
Used mainly the Norwegian Cappelens 1 :400.000 Troms og Finnmark map (main reference for this report). For local use the 1 :250.000 Statens vegvesen VERGKAART, blad 21 (Varanger) is very good. There are better maps for hikers (1 :50.000), but very small and expensive. An excellent bargain is the Statoil Scandinavia atlas NORDEN for 200 skr: the whole of Scandinavia on a 1:300.000 scale! But it does have some imperfections: a yellow road may turn out to have thousands of potholes, a red one may not be tarmaced.
Daily route, weather and highlights
Weather in the High Arctic was sometimes cold, (down to 4 degrees C at 350 m asl), and often quite windy this year. Bad for mosquitoes. But not too much rain, mostly drizzle. Bad for spectacle wearers. A real deluge on the 22nd July.
And a few marvellous, sunny days, too. Spring had been very late, lots of huge snowdrifts, especially on the NE slopes, like in 2000, 2003 and 2007. And a frozen lake until 1st July along the 891 road! Nice for landscape photographs.
Again no Lemmings on the tundra, but in early June, thousands of them had been on the Fjells in the Gednje area. Nests and burrows everywhere. I only found 2 corpses. Between Kirkenes and Varangerbotn Rough-legged Buzzards (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) were not rare, otherwise very scarce.
Mosquitoes : not too many this year, only on the very few calm, warm days (or evenings...) on the tundra. Lots of species were rare or seemed absent like Skuas (Raubmöwen, Labbes), Temmincks Stints, Buntings (Ammern, Bruants), Pied Flycatcher (Gobemouche noir) (Trauerschnäpper) or Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) (Moorschneehuhn). But I spent little time in forest areas.
I had no special target species since I had already seen anything one could expect on previous journeys and had no illusions about difficult small birds like Terek Sandpiper (Chevalier bargette) (Terekwasserläufer) , Little Bunting (Bruant nain) (Zwergammer) , Rustic Bunting (Bruant rustique) (Waldammer) , Greenish Warbler (Pouillot verdâtre) (Grünlaubsänger) or Great Snipe (Bécassine double) (Doppelschnepfe) . So I decided to consider anything new as a bonus. I did not get ONE single “tick” this year but so what ? I wanted to have a real holiday, not sleep every other night in the car and chase around the Varanger Fjord after rarities.
Sorry, but some of my friends will have to learn a few English names of more or less "common" Arctic Fjell species so I have set up a
Glossary:
RTD: Red-throated Diver (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher)
RLB: Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard)
LTD: Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente)
LTS: Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe)
AS: Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe)
TS: Temminck's Stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) (Temminckstrandläufer)
PSP: Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer)
RTP: Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper)
The highlights:
Wed 25th June
Coming from Jönköping, 2 Cranes (Grue cendrée) (Kranich) near the Motala junction., another pair near Stora Hammarsundet. 2 Whooper Swans (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan) not far from the Lipriklea junction north Umea, near the Sikea crossroads. A Woodcock (Waldschnepfe, Bécasse) by the Bensbyn exit, 15 Curlew (Courlis cendré) (Großer Brachvogel) near Morjärv, only 1 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche) on Kaunispää Hill near Saariselkä.
Sat 28th June
Arrived around midnight at “my” cabin in the Gednje area where I am to stay for 3+ weeks, exploring the areas between Tana Bru, Berlevag, Gednje and Batsfjord. (I did not go as far as Syltefjord.) One of the lakes by the road is still entirely frozen in spite of mild temperatures.
The first Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) flies past the cabin, 2 Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) in front of the window. Arrival of friends from Germany. Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche), Temminck's Stint, Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) and Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer) in my study area, as well as 5 (or even 7) Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), four of which are staying together. Apparently 2 pairs. They let us approach within less than 15 yards. –
Then my friend Bärbel Kraatz from Greifswald arrives. She had a snowstorm up here just a few days ago. We will be observing Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) over the next 3 weeks in both our study areas.
We drive to Gednje junction (1 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente), then to Kongsfjord (mixed Arctic Tern (Sterne arctique) (Küstenseeschwalbe) / Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) (Flussseeschwalbe) colony and Veines. In the bay 1 B.b.hrota Spitzbergen Brent Goose (Bernache cravant) (Ringelgans), a den with at least 3 young (and rather tame) Red Foxes. They are cute but dangerous competitors for Arctic Fox, a family of which was found very early this year on the high plateaus of the Varanger peninsula. Weather OK, sometimes a bit windy.
Sun 29th June
A pair of Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) in Bärbel's area, 6 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) on a lake, only 1 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer). On the northern side of the road, another pair of Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) (we never found them again...) , Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) and a flyover of 2 more calling female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer).
Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and 2 Ruff (Combattant varié) (Kampfläufer) in a very wet place in my area, as well as a pair of Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer) and.... on the higher ground, just where the vegetation is about to finish in the scree, I find one of the 4 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) we had seen yesterday, running around, hesitating. And sure enough, 5 minutes later, he goes back to his nest. I enter the place into my GPS and want to leave him when the female commes running and gets so close that I cannot focus my telescope on her. Great birds!
The first impression of the Fjell: VERY few birds, virtually no sounds all day long. Where have they all gone? Nearly all the usual species are present, but very thin on the ground and extremely discreet. Strange.
But there are Mountain Lemming nests and burrows all over the place. There was a Lemming peak in May, the first real explosion of the Lemming population here since the 1970s. But then they crashed; I only found 2 corpses, no Snowy Owls (Harfang des neiges) (Schnee-Eule), VERY few Skuas.
Weather even nicer.
Mon 30th June
Long walk in Bärbel's study area. We spot 2 flying Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), two (females?) on the ground and 5 females feeding together, then flying away. One more lonesome Purple sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer). The weather remaining calm, mild and pleasant.
Back in my area 1 see a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard), Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe), Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), Temminck's stint and 2 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe).
Tue 1st July
Good weather, 20+°. 3 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) on Bärbel's lake, and a Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche) and a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard).
3 fighting and displaying Red-throated divers (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher) on “my” lake. In the wetter places in my area there are Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer), an unexpected calling Snipe (Bécassine des marais) (Bekassine), very rare up here, Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche), Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) , and 2 male Ruff (Combattant varié) (Kampfläufer). When I check on “my” Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) nest, I stumble upon ANOTHER clutch, less than 100 yards from nest no1! The breeding bird does not pay me much attention but looks up into the sky until I see a Hering Gull, at least 500 m above us, barely visible, looking for food. And those gulls will eat ANYTHING here!
Wed 2nd July
Sunny, 22°!! Smashing weather! The lake is starting to thaw. 2 long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) on another, smaller lake nearby. 8-10 Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) in the scree on the hill, probably feeding young. 1 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) flies over the cabin. When we check on “my” nests, there is a female sitting on nest 2, the male waiting not very far.
We see a Temminck's Stint and – surprise – a flock of 4 Tundra Bean Geese (Oies des moissons) (Tundrasaatgans) flying above, a very rare sight. Non-paired birds or pairs still waiting for the very high Tundra lakes to thaw?
A long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe), a Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) and 2 Red-necked phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) in my wet study area.
In the evening the wind turns north, becomes very strong, 12° only, fog appears, a bad omen!
Tue 3rd July
Still the 3 RTD on my lake. Shopping, showering and e-mails in Batsfjord. 24 LTD in the river mouth at km 28.5, 4 Oystercatchers (Huîtrier pie) (Austernfischer) in the harbour. My friend Daniel arrives, but the weather is getting worse. Cold, windy, drizzle.
Fri 4th
4°, five in the cabin, arctic conditions, rain, fog, stormy wind, very frustrating. Wind chill factor: -1/-2° !
Sat 5th
Due to rain + the persisting fog, we decide to go down to the Tana valley. Just before Austertana (km.4.3) where there is a double electric pole with a transformator by the road, we hear a woodpecker drumming. I take a little stone, tap against another pole, and sure enough, a splendid male Three-toed woodpecker (Pic tridactyle) (Dreizehenspecht) comes out of the dense birch wood, sits on the pole, and spends a few minutes looking for his rival. Had never seen those in pure birch woods!
I had not found any Gyrfalcons (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) breeding in the Tana valley in 2007 and 2006 and thought that they had been frightened away by unscrupulous birders or the massive roadworks in 2006. But we DO find a nest with at least 2 young, one already sitting 6 ft. below, in one of the most unbelievable places. Sorry lads, no GPS data, if you cannot find them or other nests, go to the Fulufjäll in Sweden before coming up here, there is a nest just outside the Visitors' Centre, visible from the car park! Advertised on the internet on
http://www.dalarna.se/templates/dalarna/StartPageOther____537.aspx?epslanguage=SV
Back on Kongsfjordfjell, 2 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) and LT-Ducks.
Sun 6th
We briefly check on my 2 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) nests; everything OK in spite of the weather. Drive down to Batsfjord with 2 Black Guillemot (Guillemot à miroir) (Gryllteiste) in the harbour and still 19 LTD in the river mouth. No Twite! (Linotte à bec jaune, Berghänfling). Weather still awful.
Mon 7th
Trip to Berlevag. We have 3 Scaup (Fuligule milouinan) (Bergente) at Gednje junction, a RLB on Veines/Kongsfjord, a pair of White-tailed Eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) in Risfjord bay and an immature bird on a rock near the road. Eventually, it flies off but in order to come and have a close look at us. Nice pictures...! – We hear a Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) (Berghänfling) call, but cannot find it. In a small valley full of willows 1 beautiful singing Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) (Blaukehlchen) and a less confiding Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper). At Kjölnes Fyr lighthouse 2 Gannets (Fou de Bassan) (Basstölpel) and a white Fulmar (Fulmar boréal) (Eissturmvogel), very scarce in July. – Arriving in Berlevag we watch the big Kittiwake (Mouette tridactyle) (Dreizehenmöwe) colony on the houses. Before going home I stop the car to watch a flock of gulls on a roof. When Daniel asks me why we stop, I say “Just in case there is a Glaucous Gull (Goéland bourgmestre) (Eismöwe) among them.” And what do you think? The first gull I see, the middle one in the first row IS a spotless adult Glaucous!! Big laugh!
On the way home we have a fourth Eagle near Buetjern. Weather slightly improving since midday.
Tue 8th
After 4 days of rain, Daniel sets off to Ekkeroy to see the young White-billed Diver (Plongeon à bec blanc) (Gelbschnabeltaucher) (which obligingly waited until D. arrived). We check on my Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), have another female on one of the nests which gets a terrible shock when a cock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn), flushed by Bärbel about 500 yds. further off, flies over her nest, just a few feet from the ground.
Wed 9th
Again, 3 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in my area with a calling Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) (Dunkler Wasserläufer) flying over us. What this Taiga bird was doing here, God only knows! In the hills behind my cottage, the Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) have disappeared. But there is a Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) by the lake, a pair of Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and I stumble on a Golden Plover`s nest, a few yards from the old road and find a female Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn) sitting in a small depression, but no eggs. Weather slightly better, mostly dry.
Thur 10th
Very cloudy. Check on my (3) Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) (giving them a few mealworms every time I walk past so that they associate my coming with some positive experience. They must be VERY hungry after these long bad days.) Again the Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and the Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) 20 mins. from my cabin.
Fri 11th
Weather slowly improving. Fair evening.- I spend the morning with 2 other German friends. But the Tundra seems to be empty. We only see 2 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) and 1 Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer), the one by the lake near the cabin. 1 Black-throated diver (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) on Gednjajavri lake. But in the evening, Bärbel and I find a very nervous female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in her are by the fence, just where I had found a nest (a replacement clutch) 4 years ago, just after her late husband and she had gone home to Germany. After a long wait, the bird sits on a clutch and Bärbel is happy after spending 3 weeks looking for a nest in her “territory”.
Sat 12th
Fair weather, warm. Near Bärbel's camping car, a Golden Plover (Pluvier doré) (Goldregenpfeifer) and a Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) sit close together in the Blueberry vegetation, looking at her for a long time. Strange pair!
On nest 3, a male bird, much less nervous than his spouse last night.
In my area, still 3 birds, and I manage to get a very rare picture of a male Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) taking over incubation after his female! Females participating in incubation had been considered very rare for a long time; here, this seems to be common. But I did not observe any females on nests after the 17th July. And the eggs had been laid very late. Both nests 1 and 2 had no chicks on the 22nd!
Sun 13th
Showers, 13 – 16°
My Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) are OK in spite of a RLB. When I arrive in Bärbel's area, she is lying on the ground at nest 3, feeding the male mealworms AND HE IS TAKING THEM FROM HER FINGERS!!! And when she tells me to try and have a go, the bird is not afraid but eats several worms I give him. Although he has seen me just once before from a distance! – It is just a wild hypothesis..., but could this be one of the birds that Bärbel and her husband Siegfried had fed in 2004/05 ? A bird that “knew the trick”? – First day with more than 2, maybe 5 – 6 Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe).
Mon 14th
Fair, 20°, 1 shower.
Both “my” nests are being incubated by female Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer)! On nest three, too! One Snow bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) at the summit of Bärbel's plateau.
Tue 15th
Fair, 20+°, but some mosquitoes..., much cooler on the seaside.
1 male on each of my nests. 1 RLB, 1 Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), 2 Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe). We drive to Sandfjord on the Kongsfjord road. On Veines we find at least 2Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) (Berghänfling), a Red-throated pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper), Water pipit (Pipit spioncelle) (Bergpieper) AND Meadow pipit (Pipit farlouse) (Wiesenpieper). Another RTP and 2 Red-necked Phlaropes on the little pond hidden near the small bay (beach good for bathing...) just before big Sandfjord bay.
Wed 16th
Fair, 16°, shower at 2 pm, windy.
The male on nest 3 still takes mealworms from my hand. In my area, a female on nest 2, two more females in the key area where I had 6 nests between 2000 and 2006 (but nothing since then). They visibly don't like the only Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) I have seen in days. But they finally fly away, calling, landing a mile further, very far. Two more birds (the same?) turn up 20 mins. later. Strange!
Thu 17th
Fair, windy but warm, 1 heavy shower.
The last time I saw a breeding female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) (on nest 2). When we check on nest 3, a big shock: 2 eggs have been trampled upon, probably by one of the Reindeer I saw walking along the fence these days since the vegetation has finally started to grow. We clean the inside of the nest and leave the last egg in it; in the evening, a bird is breeding on it. Sigh of relief!
A White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) circles miles away over Lake Gednje. At 1h10 a.m. the RTD are making an unbelievable ruckus on my lake, eerie sounds in the silence of the arctic night, seeming to come from another world!
Fri 18th
Fog, colder (9°) , wind 5, west, 3-4 hrs of rain.
1 Temminck's Stint in my area, all 3 nests are OK.
Sat 19th
Fair, 18°, 1 shower, wind westerly 2-4.
3 males on the 3 nests. All's well! 5 LTD on the lake plus the 2 AS on the island by the road. But they don't seem to breed either. 3 pairs, no nest!
A female Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin (Faucon émerillon)) on a Reindeer fence post, looking for what? Buntings? 2 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) and calling RTD on the lake 4 kms east of Gednje. Beautiful midnight sun”set” and for the first time I see the MOON in July, just an inch above the southern horizon!
Sun 20th
Fair, 20° but windy (4-6, SW then ESE)
Alas, Bärbel has to drive home. “Her” Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) on nest 3 is visibly afraid of 3 raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe); he leaves the nest and has a drink in a nearby puddle after eating a worm.
The male of “my” nest 1 has a new habit. When I am sitting by nest 2, he will come and see what I am doing, getting so close to nest 2 that male2 feels obliged to attack him. Not to much avail, no panick, no flight, male1 will retreat quietly..on foot!
Evening walk near the cabin, Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer) and Temminck's Stint in the wet area, both a pair of RTD AND Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) on the lake.
Mon 21st
Terrible weather. Shopping in Batsfjors, siesta....
Tue 22nd
At 5 a.m., a real deluge wakes me. Never seen such rainfalls in the Arctic except in thunderstorms. But this lasts for hours. There is water everywhere. At 11 am, things are much quieter. But no bird on nest 3, the egg is icy cold. Then I check on my nests 1 and 2 – everything is surprisingly OK. Male 1 again provokes male 2 near his nest, but this time M2 just flattens himself and I can hear some threatening but discreet calls.
And when I come down towards the car park, there is ANOTHER Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) standing right in the key area where I had not found anything after 2006. I wait a few moments, and then I can see.... 3 chicks coming towards him for warmth! How did THEY survive these heavenly floods ? Nobody knows. I check again at 9 pm, and they are STILL there, barely 60 yards away from their morning spot.
1 RLB and 2 LTS, 1 Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) by the cabin lake, as well as ... a second glimpse of the moon, much further to the left now than 2 days ago. But still as low above the horizon.
Wed 23rd
Since the weather is still cool and wet, I bid farewell to this beautiful Fjell where I had the opportunity to spend more than 3 relaxing weeks in one of the apparently most inhospitable areas you can reach by car in Europe. Some people may say you must be crazy to go on a holiday in such a place but I have no regrets. The many unforgettably beautiful days have made up for the rain and the cold that are quite common up here, even in July.
1 RTD on a pond on Kongsfjorfjellet pass, and a hunting Gyrfalcon (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) at km 10 before Austertana, where the road dives into the immense birch jungle below the tree line.
Stopover at Hotel Pujantulli S of Utsjoki. They have lots of bird feeders behind the building: lots of Greenfinches (Verdier d'Europe) (Grünfink), Brambling (Pinson du Nord) (Bergfink), Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig), 1 Bullfinch (Bouvreuil pivoine) (Gimpel) (no Pine Grosbeaks (Durbec des sapins) (Hakengimpel) which DO visit the feeders) but a lovely Siberian Tit (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise) in the rain.- Ten minutes later, a juvenile Mink crosses the road near Pukansallajärvi.
In the big swamp after Vuotso some Yellow Wagtails (Bergeronnette printanière) (Schafstelze) the first Swallows (Hirondelle rustique) (Rauchschwalbe) , 1 RLB and a Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) (Bruchwasserläufer). At 10 pm one Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) SW Kemijärvi and an Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler) above a river. And a female Elk (Moose) near Karhujärvi, the Bears' Lake.
Night in car on Kontainen Hill near Ruka/Finland.
Thu 24th
No birds on Kontainen but a Great Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche grise) (Raubwürger) near Rukajärvi. And the first Sparrowhawk (Épervier d'Europe) (Sperber) near Mustovaara.
I arrive at the Wild Brown Bear Centre in Martinselkonen, take a room an have an afternoon nap. Lunch at 3 pm, then off we go to a hide by a big pond in the middle of the Taiga, a few hundred yards from the Russian border. 5 mins. after Janni, the guide, has left, the first of 11 or 12 Brown Bears arrives, looking for dog biscuits in the grass. Some gulls, even Lesser black-backed gulls (Goéland brun) (Heringsmöwe), 1 Black Kite (Milan noir) (Schwarzmilan), rare in the North, a Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) (Bruchwasserläufer) and a Greenshank (Chevalier aboyeur) (Grünschenkel) around the Lake. And the bear ballet goes on with up to 7 bears simultaneously. One young female has 3 small cubs that come as close as 7 ft. from the hide, anothe huge old femal has a one-year old cub that cheekily attacks a much bigger bear and plays with it. His elder brother or sister? But the mother does not like it and chases away the intruder. Incredible how fast a bear can run. Never run away from a bear; you have NO chance!
Sat 26th
I spend the night at my friend Ove's in Kalix. At 00h30 a.m., a woodcock (Bécasse des bois) (Waldschnepfe) displays over the house. In the evening, 5 Lesser white-fronted Geese (Oie naine) (Zwerggans) in Hudiksvall on their traditional moulting place. Very few but it may be a good sign when all the others (there may be about 200 in sweden now) have found a mate and are reproducing in Lapland.
Not a very long trip report like last year, but I am certain to come back to this godforsaken but stunning place at the top of the Varanger peninsula. Reading or listening to Bach when it rains....
1 Red-throated Diver (Plongeon catmarin) Sterntaucher 2
2 Black-throated Diver (Plongeon arctique) Prachttaucher 2
3 White-billed Diver (Plongeon à bec blanc) Gelbschnabeltaucher 1
4 Northern Fulmar (Fulmar boréal) Eissturmvogel 1
5 Northern Gannet (Fou de Bassan) Basstölpel 1
6 Whooper Swan (Cygne chanteur) Singschwan 1
7 Tundra Bean Goose (Oie des moissons) Tundrasaatgans 1
8 Lesser White-fronted Goose (Oie naine) Zwerggans 1
9 Barnacle Goose (Bernache nonnette) Weißwangengans 1
10 Greater Scaup (Fuligule milouinan) Bergente 1
11 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) Eisente 3
12 Black Kite (Milan noir) Schwarzmilan 1
13 White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) Seeadler 2
14 Northern Sparrowhawk (Épervier d'Europe) Sperber 1
15 Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) Raufußbussard 4
16 Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) Fischadler 1
17 Merlin (Faucon émerillon) Merlin 1
18 Gyr Falcon (Faucon gerfaut) Gerfalke 2
19 Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) Moorschneehuhn 1
20 Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) Alpenschneehuhn 2
21 Common Crane (Grue cendrée) Kranich 1
22 Eurasian Oystercatcher (Huîtrier pie) Austernfischer 1
23 Eurasian Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) Mornellregenpfeifer 21
24 European Golden Plover (Pluvier doré) Goldregenpfeifer 1
25 Temminck's Stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) Temminckstrandläufer 1
26 Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) Meerstrandläufer 6
27 Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) Alpenstrandläufer 3
28 Ruff (Combattant varié) Kampfläufer 2
29 Common Snipe (Bécassine des marais) Bekassine 1
30 Great Snipe (Bécassine double) Doppelschnepfe 1
31 Eurasian Woodcock (Bécasse des bois) Waldschnepfe 1
32 Eurasian Curlew (Courlis cendré) Großer Brachvogel 1
33 Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) Dunkler Wasserläufer 1
34 Common Greenshank (Chevalier aboyeur) Grünschenkel 1
35 Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) Bruchwasserläufer 2
36 Terek Sandpiper (Chevalier bargette) Terekwasserläufer 1
37 Ruddy Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) Steinwälzer 5
38 Red-necked Phalarope (Phalarope à bec étroit) Odinshühnchen 4
39 Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) Schmarotzerraubmöwe 7
40 Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) Falkenraubmöwe 6
41 Lesser Black-backed Gull (Goéland brun) Heringsmöwe 1
42 Glaucous Gull (Goéland bourgmestre) Eismöwe 2
43 Black-legged Kittiwake (Mouette tridactyle) Dreizehenmöwe 1
44 Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) Flussseeschwalbe 1
45 Arctic Tern (Sterne arctique) Küstenseeschwalbe 1
46 Black Guillemot (Guillemot à miroir) Gryllteiste 1
48 Three-toed Woodpecker (Pic tridactyle) Dreizehenspecht 1
49 Barn Swallow (Hirondelle rustique) Rauchschwalbe 1
50 Meadow Pipit (Pipit farlouse) Wiesenpieper 1
47 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col) Ohrenlerche 4
51 Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) Rotkehlpieper 3
52 Water Pipit (Pipit spioncelle) Bergpieper 1
53 Yellow Wagtail (Bergeronnette printanière) Schafstelze 1
54 Bohemian Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) Seidenschwanz 1
55 Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) Blaukehlchen 1
56 Greenish Warbler (Pouillot verdâtre) Grünlaubsänger 1
57 Pied Flycatcher (Gobemouche noir) Trauerschnäpper 1
58 Siberian Tit (Mésange lapone) Lapplandmeise 1
59 Great Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche grise) Raubwürger 1
60 Common Raven (Grand Corbeau) Kolkrabe 1
61 Brambling (Pinson du Nord) Bergfink 1
62 Greenfinch (Verdier d'Europe) Grünfink 1
63 Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) Berghänfling 2
64 Common Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) Birkenzeisig 1
65 Pine Grosbeak (Durbec des sapins) Hakengimpel 1
66 Northern Bullfinch (Bouvreuil pivoine) Gimpel 1
67 Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) Spornammer 4
68 Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) Schneeammer 5
69 Rustic Bunting (Bruant rustique) Waldammer 1
70 Little Bunting (Bruant nain) Zwergammer 1
1 Red-throated Diver Plongeon catmarin 3
2 Black-throated Diver Plongeon arctique 3
3 White-billed Diver Plongeon à bec blanc 2
4 Northern Fulmar Fulmar boréal 2
5 Northern Gannet Fou de Bassan 2
6 Whooper Swan Cygne chanteur 2
7 Tundra Bean Goose 2
8 Lesser White-fronted Goose Oie naine 2
9 Brent Goose Bernache cravant 2
10 Greater Scaup Fuligule milouinan 2
11 Long-tailed Duck Harelde boréale 4
12 Black Kite Milan noir 2
13 White-tailed Eagle Pygargue à queue blanche 3
14 Northern Sparrowhawk Épervier d'Europe 2
15 Rough-legged Buzzard Buse pattue 5
16 Osprey Balbuzard pêcheur 2
17 Merlin Faucon émerillon 4
18 Gyr Falcon Faucon gerfaut 3
19 Willow Grouse Lagopède des saules 2
20 Rock Ptarmigan Lagopède alpin 3
21 Common Crane Grue cendrée 2
22 Eurasian Oystercatcher Huîtrier pie 2
23 Eurasian Dotterel Pluvier guignard 22
24 European Golden Plover Pluvier doré 2
25 Temminck's Stint Bécasseau de Temminck 2
26 Purple Sandpiper Bécasseau violet 7
27 Dunlin Bécasseau variable 4
28 Ruff Combattant varié 3
29 Common Snipe Bécassine des marais 2
30 Great Snipe Bécassine double 2
31 Eurasian Woodcock Bécasse des bois 2
32 Eurasian Curlew Courlis cendré 2
33 Spotted Redshank Chevalier arlequin 2
34 Common Greenshank Chevalier aboyeur 2
35 Wood Sandpiper Chevalier sylvain 3
36 Terek Sandpiper Chevalier bargette 2
37 Ruddy Turnstone Tournepierre à collier 6
38 Red-necked Phalarope Phalarope à bec étroit 5
39 Arctic Skua Labbe parasite 8
40 Long-tailed Skua Labbe à longue queue 7
41 Lesser Black-backed Gull Goéland brun 2
42 Glaucous Gull Goéland bourgmestre 3
43 Black-legged Kittiwake Mouette tridactyle 2
44 Common Tern Sterne pierregarin 2
45 Arctic Tern Sterne arctique 2
46 Black Guillemot Guillemot à miroir 2
47 2
48 Three-toed Woodpecker Pic tridactyle 2
49 Barn Swallow Hirondelle rustique 2
50 Meadow Pipit Pipit farlouse 2
51 Red-throated Pipit Pipit à gorge rousse 4
52 Water Pipit Pipit spioncelle 2
53 Yellow Wagtail Bergeronnette printanière 2
54 Bohemian Waxwing Jaseur boréal 2
55 Bluethroat Gorgebleue à miroir 2
56 Greenish Warbler Pouillot verdâtre 2
57 Pied Flycatcher Gobemouche noir 2
58 Siberian Tit Mésange lapone 2
59 Great Grey Shrike Pie-grièche grise 2
60 Common Raven Grand Corbeau 2
61 Brambling Pinson du Nord 2
62 Greenfinch Verdier d'Europe 2
63 Twite Linotte à bec jaune 3
64 Common Redpoll Sizerin flammé 2
65 Pine Grosbeak Durbec des sapins 2
66 Northern Bullfinch Bouvreuil pivoine 2
67 Lapland Bunting Bruant lapon 5
68 Snow Bunting Bruant des neiges 6
69 Rustic Bunting Bruant rustique 2
70 Little Bunting Bruant nain 2
47 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col) Ohrenlerche
Report on a birding trip
Illustrations on
http://picasaweb.google.com/lutzluecker
http://picasaweb.google.com/lutz6lucker
Videos:
http://www.youtube.com/user/lutz6lucker
http://www.dailymotion.com/lutz6lucker
Lutz Lücker 5, Fort-L'Ecluse – CH-1213 Pt.-Lancy/Geneva / Switzerland
Introduction (same as in 2002-2007):
Travel :
By car from Geneva. Petrol less expensive in Sweden, most expensive in Norway.
Crossed Baltic Sea at Fehmarn (Puttgarden/Rödby) and Helsingör.
Beware! In late July, waiting queues in Rödby can be long except at night; better use the bridge near Odense.
There are lots of automated petrol stations in Fennoscandia but they do not all accept foreign credit cards. Better have a few small banknotes ready, especially in Finland...!
Maps :
Used mainly the Norwegian Cappelens 1 :400.000 Troms og Finnmark map (main reference for this report). For local use the 1 :250.000 Statens vegvesen VERGKAART, blad 21 (Varanger) is very good. There are better maps for hikers (1 :50.000), but very small and expensive. An excellent bargain is the Statoil Scandinavia atlas NORDEN for 200 skr: the whole of Scandinavia on a 1:300.000 scale! But it does have some imperfections: a yellow road may turn out to have thousands of potholes, a red one may not be tarmaced.
Daily route, weather and highlights
Weather in the High Arctic was sometimes cold, (down to 4 degrees C at 350 m asl), and often quite windy this year. Bad for mosquitoes. But not too much rain, mostly drizzle. Bad for spectacle wearers. A real deluge on the 22nd July.
And a few marvellous, sunny days, too. Spring had been very late, lots of huge snowdrifts, especially on the NE slopes, like in 2000, 2003 and 2007. And a frozen lake until 1st July along the 891 road! Nice for landscape photographs.
Again no Lemmings on the tundra, but in early June, thousands of them had been on the Fjells in the Gednje area. Nests and burrows everywhere. I only found 2 corpses. Between Kirkenes and Varangerbotn Rough-legged Buzzards (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard) were not rare, otherwise very scarce.
Mosquitoes : not too many this year, only on the very few calm, warm days (or evenings...) on the tundra. Lots of species were rare or seemed absent like Skuas (Raubmöwen, Labbes), Temmincks Stints, Buntings (Ammern, Bruants), Pied Flycatcher (Gobemouche noir) (Trauerschnäpper) or Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) (Moorschneehuhn). But I spent little time in forest areas.
I had no special target species since I had already seen anything one could expect on previous journeys and had no illusions about difficult small birds like Terek Sandpiper (Chevalier bargette) (Terekwasserläufer) , Little Bunting (Bruant nain) (Zwergammer) , Rustic Bunting (Bruant rustique) (Waldammer) , Greenish Warbler (Pouillot verdâtre) (Grünlaubsänger) or Great Snipe (Bécassine double) (Doppelschnepfe) . So I decided to consider anything new as a bonus. I did not get ONE single “tick” this year but so what ? I wanted to have a real holiday, not sleep every other night in the car and chase around the Varanger Fjord after rarities.
Sorry, but some of my friends will have to learn a few English names of more or less "common" Arctic Fjell species so I have set up a
Glossary:
RTD: Red-throated Diver (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher)
RLB: Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard)
LTD: Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente)
LTS: Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe)
AS: Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe)
TS: Temminck's Stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) (Temminckstrandläufer)
PSP: Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer)
RTP: Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper)
The highlights:
Wed 25th June
Coming from Jönköping, 2 Cranes (Grue cendrée) (Kranich) near the Motala junction., another pair near Stora Hammarsundet. 2 Whooper Swans (Cygne chanteur) (Singschwan) not far from the Lipriklea junction north Umea, near the Sikea crossroads. A Woodcock (Waldschnepfe, Bécasse) by the Bensbyn exit, 15 Curlew (Courlis cendré) (Großer Brachvogel) near Morjärv, only 1 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche) on Kaunispää Hill near Saariselkä.
Sat 28th June
Arrived around midnight at “my” cabin in the Gednje area where I am to stay for 3+ weeks, exploring the areas between Tana Bru, Berlevag, Gednje and Batsfjord. (I did not go as far as Syltefjord.) One of the lakes by the road is still entirely frozen in spite of mild temperatures.
The first Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) flies past the cabin, 2 Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) in front of the window. Arrival of friends from Germany. Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche), Temminck's Stint, Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) and Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer) in my study area, as well as 5 (or even 7) Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), four of which are staying together. Apparently 2 pairs. They let us approach within less than 15 yards. –
Then my friend Bärbel Kraatz from Greifswald arrives. She had a snowstorm up here just a few days ago. We will be observing Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) over the next 3 weeks in both our study areas.
We drive to Gednje junction (1 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente), then to Kongsfjord (mixed Arctic Tern (Sterne arctique) (Küstenseeschwalbe) / Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) (Flussseeschwalbe) colony and Veines. In the bay 1 B.b.hrota Spitzbergen Brent Goose (Bernache cravant) (Ringelgans), a den with at least 3 young (and rather tame) Red Foxes. They are cute but dangerous competitors for Arctic Fox, a family of which was found very early this year on the high plateaus of the Varanger peninsula. Weather OK, sometimes a bit windy.
Sun 29th June
A pair of Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) in Bärbel's area, 6 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) on a lake, only 1 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer). On the northern side of the road, another pair of Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) (we never found them again...) , Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) and a flyover of 2 more calling female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer).
Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and 2 Ruff (Combattant varié) (Kampfläufer) in a very wet place in my area, as well as a pair of Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer) and.... on the higher ground, just where the vegetation is about to finish in the scree, I find one of the 4 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) we had seen yesterday, running around, hesitating. And sure enough, 5 minutes later, he goes back to his nest. I enter the place into my GPS and want to leave him when the female commes running and gets so close that I cannot focus my telescope on her. Great birds!
The first impression of the Fjell: VERY few birds, virtually no sounds all day long. Where have they all gone? Nearly all the usual species are present, but very thin on the ground and extremely discreet. Strange.
But there are Mountain Lemming nests and burrows all over the place. There was a Lemming peak in May, the first real explosion of the Lemming population here since the 1970s. But then they crashed; I only found 2 corpses, no Snowy Owls (Harfang des neiges) (Schnee-Eule), VERY few Skuas.
Weather even nicer.
Mon 30th June
Long walk in Bärbel's study area. We spot 2 flying Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), two (females?) on the ground and 5 females feeding together, then flying away. One more lonesome Purple sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer). The weather remaining calm, mild and pleasant.
Back in my area 1 see a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard), Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe), Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), Temminck's stint and 2 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe).
Tue 1st July
Good weather, 20+°. 3 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) on Bärbel's lake, and a Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche) and a Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) (Raufußbussard).
3 fighting and displaying Red-throated divers (Plongeon catmarin) (Sterntaucher) on “my” lake. In the wetter places in my area there are Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer), an unexpected calling Snipe (Bécassine des marais) (Bekassine), very rare up here, Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col, Ohrenlerche), Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) , and 2 male Ruff (Combattant varié) (Kampfläufer). When I check on “my” Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) nest, I stumble upon ANOTHER clutch, less than 100 yards from nest no1! The breeding bird does not pay me much attention but looks up into the sky until I see a Hering Gull, at least 500 m above us, barely visible, looking for food. And those gulls will eat ANYTHING here!
Wed 2nd July
Sunny, 22°!! Smashing weather! The lake is starting to thaw. 2 long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) (Eisente) on another, smaller lake nearby. 8-10 Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) in the scree on the hill, probably feeding young. 1 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) flies over the cabin. When we check on “my” nests, there is a female sitting on nest 2, the male waiting not very far.
We see a Temminck's Stint and – surprise – a flock of 4 Tundra Bean Geese (Oies des moissons) (Tundrasaatgans) flying above, a very rare sight. Non-paired birds or pairs still waiting for the very high Tundra lakes to thaw?
A long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe), a Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) and 2 Red-necked phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) in my wet study area.
In the evening the wind turns north, becomes very strong, 12° only, fog appears, a bad omen!
Tue 3rd July
Still the 3 RTD on my lake. Shopping, showering and e-mails in Batsfjord. 24 LTD in the river mouth at km 28.5, 4 Oystercatchers (Huîtrier pie) (Austernfischer) in the harbour. My friend Daniel arrives, but the weather is getting worse. Cold, windy, drizzle.
Fri 4th
4°, five in the cabin, arctic conditions, rain, fog, stormy wind, very frustrating. Wind chill factor: -1/-2° !
Sat 5th
Due to rain + the persisting fog, we decide to go down to the Tana valley. Just before Austertana (km.4.3) where there is a double electric pole with a transformator by the road, we hear a woodpecker drumming. I take a little stone, tap against another pole, and sure enough, a splendid male Three-toed woodpecker (Pic tridactyle) (Dreizehenspecht) comes out of the dense birch wood, sits on the pole, and spends a few minutes looking for his rival. Had never seen those in pure birch woods!
I had not found any Gyrfalcons (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) breeding in the Tana valley in 2007 and 2006 and thought that they had been frightened away by unscrupulous birders or the massive roadworks in 2006. But we DO find a nest with at least 2 young, one already sitting 6 ft. below, in one of the most unbelievable places. Sorry lads, no GPS data, if you cannot find them or other nests, go to the Fulufjäll in Sweden before coming up here, there is a nest just outside the Visitors' Centre, visible from the car park! Advertised on the internet on
http://www.dalarna.se/templates/dalarna/StartPageOther____537.aspx?epslanguage=SV
Back on Kongsfjordfjell, 2 Long-tailed Skuas (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) and LT-Ducks.
Sun 6th
We briefly check on my 2 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) nests; everything OK in spite of the weather. Drive down to Batsfjord with 2 Black Guillemot (Guillemot à miroir) (Gryllteiste) in the harbour and still 19 LTD in the river mouth. No Twite! (Linotte à bec jaune, Berghänfling). Weather still awful.
Mon 7th
Trip to Berlevag. We have 3 Scaup (Fuligule milouinan) (Bergente) at Gednje junction, a RLB on Veines/Kongsfjord, a pair of White-tailed Eagles (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) in Risfjord bay and an immature bird on a rock near the road. Eventually, it flies off but in order to come and have a close look at us. Nice pictures...! – We hear a Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) (Berghänfling) call, but cannot find it. In a small valley full of willows 1 beautiful singing Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) (Blaukehlchen) and a less confiding Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper). At Kjölnes Fyr lighthouse 2 Gannets (Fou de Bassan) (Basstölpel) and a white Fulmar (Fulmar boréal) (Eissturmvogel), very scarce in July. – Arriving in Berlevag we watch the big Kittiwake (Mouette tridactyle) (Dreizehenmöwe) colony on the houses. Before going home I stop the car to watch a flock of gulls on a roof. When Daniel asks me why we stop, I say “Just in case there is a Glaucous Gull (Goéland bourgmestre) (Eismöwe) among them.” And what do you think? The first gull I see, the middle one in the first row IS a spotless adult Glaucous!! Big laugh!
On the way home we have a fourth Eagle near Buetjern. Weather slightly improving since midday.
Tue 8th
After 4 days of rain, Daniel sets off to Ekkeroy to see the young White-billed Diver (Plongeon à bec blanc) (Gelbschnabeltaucher) (which obligingly waited until D. arrived). We check on my Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer), have another female on one of the nests which gets a terrible shock when a cock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn), flushed by Bärbel about 500 yds. further off, flies over her nest, just a few feet from the ground.
Wed 9th
Again, 3 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in my area with a calling Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) (Dunkler Wasserläufer) flying over us. What this Taiga bird was doing here, God only knows! In the hills behind my cottage, the Snow Buntings (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) have disappeared. But there is a Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer) by the lake, a pair of Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and I stumble on a Golden Plover`s nest, a few yards from the old road and find a female Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) (Alpenschneehuhn) sitting in a small depression, but no eggs. Weather slightly better, mostly dry.
Thur 10th
Very cloudy. Check on my (3) Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) (giving them a few mealworms every time I walk past so that they associate my coming with some positive experience. They must be VERY hungry after these long bad days.) Again the Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe) and the Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) 20 mins. from my cabin.
Fri 11th
Weather slowly improving. Fair evening.- I spend the morning with 2 other German friends. But the Tundra seems to be empty. We only see 2 Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) and 1 Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) (Meerstrandläufer), the one by the lake near the cabin. 1 Black-throated diver (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) on Gednjajavri lake. But in the evening, Bärbel and I find a very nervous female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) in her are by the fence, just where I had found a nest (a replacement clutch) 4 years ago, just after her late husband and she had gone home to Germany. After a long wait, the bird sits on a clutch and Bärbel is happy after spending 3 weeks looking for a nest in her “territory”.
Sat 12th
Fair weather, warm. Near Bärbel's camping car, a Golden Plover (Pluvier doré) (Goldregenpfeifer) and a Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) sit close together in the Blueberry vegetation, looking at her for a long time. Strange pair!
On nest 3, a male bird, much less nervous than his spouse last night.
In my area, still 3 birds, and I manage to get a very rare picture of a male Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) taking over incubation after his female! Females participating in incubation had been considered very rare for a long time; here, this seems to be common. But I did not observe any females on nests after the 17th July. And the eggs had been laid very late. Both nests 1 and 2 had no chicks on the 22nd!
Sun 13th
Showers, 13 – 16°
My Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) are OK in spite of a RLB. When I arrive in Bärbel's area, she is lying on the ground at nest 3, feeding the male mealworms AND HE IS TAKING THEM FROM HER FINGERS!!! And when she tells me to try and have a go, the bird is not afraid but eats several worms I give him. Although he has seen me just once before from a distance! – It is just a wild hypothesis..., but could this be one of the birds that Bärbel and her husband Siegfried had fed in 2004/05 ? A bird that “knew the trick”? – First day with more than 2, maybe 5 – 6 Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe).
Mon 14th
Fair, 20°, 1 shower.
Both “my” nests are being incubated by female Dotterels (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer)! On nest three, too! One Snow bunting (Bruant des neiges) (Schneeammer) at the summit of Bärbel's plateau.
Tue 15th
Fair, 20+°, but some mosquitoes..., much cooler on the seaside.
1 male on each of my nests. 1 RLB, 1 Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) (Spornammer), 2 Arctic Skuas (Labbe parasite) (Schmarotzerraubmöwe). We drive to Sandfjord on the Kongsfjord road. On Veines we find at least 2Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) (Berghänfling), a Red-throated pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) (Rotkehlpieper), Water pipit (Pipit spioncelle) (Bergpieper) AND Meadow pipit (Pipit farlouse) (Wiesenpieper). Another RTP and 2 Red-necked Phlaropes on the little pond hidden near the small bay (beach good for bathing...) just before big Sandfjord bay.
Wed 16th
Fair, 16°, shower at 2 pm, windy.
The male on nest 3 still takes mealworms from my hand. In my area, a female on nest 2, two more females in the key area where I had 6 nests between 2000 and 2006 (but nothing since then). They visibly don't like the only Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) (Falkenraubmöwe) I have seen in days. But they finally fly away, calling, landing a mile further, very far. Two more birds (the same?) turn up 20 mins. later. Strange!
Thu 17th
Fair, windy but warm, 1 heavy shower.
The last time I saw a breeding female Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) (on nest 2). When we check on nest 3, a big shock: 2 eggs have been trampled upon, probably by one of the Reindeer I saw walking along the fence these days since the vegetation has finally started to grow. We clean the inside of the nest and leave the last egg in it; in the evening, a bird is breeding on it. Sigh of relief!
A White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) (Seeadler) circles miles away over Lake Gednje. At 1h10 a.m. the RTD are making an unbelievable ruckus on my lake, eerie sounds in the silence of the arctic night, seeming to come from another world!
Fri 18th
Fog, colder (9°) , wind 5, west, 3-4 hrs of rain.
1 Temminck's Stint in my area, all 3 nests are OK.
Sat 19th
Fair, 18°, 1 shower, wind westerly 2-4.
3 males on the 3 nests. All's well! 5 LTD on the lake plus the 2 AS on the island by the road. But they don't seem to breed either. 3 pairs, no nest!
A female Merlin (Faucon émerillon) (Merlin (Faucon émerillon)) on a Reindeer fence post, looking for what? Buntings? 2 Red-necked Phalaropes (Phalarope à bec étroit) (Odinshühnchen) and calling RTD on the lake 4 kms east of Gednje. Beautiful midnight sun”set” and for the first time I see the MOON in July, just an inch above the southern horizon!
Sun 20th
Fair, 20° but windy (4-6, SW then ESE)
Alas, Bärbel has to drive home. “Her” Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) on nest 3 is visibly afraid of 3 raven (Grand Corbeau) (Kolkrabe); he leaves the nest and has a drink in a nearby puddle after eating a worm.
The male of “my” nest 1 has a new habit. When I am sitting by nest 2, he will come and see what I am doing, getting so close to nest 2 that male2 feels obliged to attack him. Not to much avail, no panick, no flight, male1 will retreat quietly..on foot!
Evening walk near the cabin, Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) (Alpenstrandläufer) and Temminck's Stint in the wet area, both a pair of RTD AND Black-throated Divers (Plongeon arctique) (Prachttaucher) on the lake.
Mon 21st
Terrible weather. Shopping in Batsfjors, siesta....
Tue 22nd
At 5 a.m., a real deluge wakes me. Never seen such rainfalls in the Arctic except in thunderstorms. But this lasts for hours. There is water everywhere. At 11 am, things are much quieter. But no bird on nest 3, the egg is icy cold. Then I check on my nests 1 and 2 – everything is surprisingly OK. Male 1 again provokes male 2 near his nest, but this time M2 just flattens himself and I can hear some threatening but discreet calls.
And when I come down towards the car park, there is ANOTHER Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) (Mornellregenpfeifer) standing right in the key area where I had not found anything after 2006. I wait a few moments, and then I can see.... 3 chicks coming towards him for warmth! How did THEY survive these heavenly floods ? Nobody knows. I check again at 9 pm, and they are STILL there, barely 60 yards away from their morning spot.
1 RLB and 2 LTS, 1 Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) (Steinwälzer) by the cabin lake, as well as ... a second glimpse of the moon, much further to the left now than 2 days ago. But still as low above the horizon.
Wed 23rd
Since the weather is still cool and wet, I bid farewell to this beautiful Fjell where I had the opportunity to spend more than 3 relaxing weeks in one of the apparently most inhospitable areas you can reach by car in Europe. Some people may say you must be crazy to go on a holiday in such a place but I have no regrets. The many unforgettably beautiful days have made up for the rain and the cold that are quite common up here, even in July.
1 RTD on a pond on Kongsfjorfjellet pass, and a hunting Gyrfalcon (Faucon gerfaut) (Gerfalke) at km 10 before Austertana, where the road dives into the immense birch jungle below the tree line.
Stopover at Hotel Pujantulli S of Utsjoki. They have lots of bird feeders behind the building: lots of Greenfinches (Verdier d'Europe) (Grünfink), Brambling (Pinson du Nord) (Bergfink), Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) (Birkenzeisig), 1 Bullfinch (Bouvreuil pivoine) (Gimpel) (no Pine Grosbeaks (Durbec des sapins) (Hakengimpel) which DO visit the feeders) but a lovely Siberian Tit (Mésange lapone) (Lapplandmeise) in the rain.- Ten minutes later, a juvenile Mink crosses the road near Pukansallajärvi.
In the big swamp after Vuotso some Yellow Wagtails (Bergeronnette printanière) (Schafstelze) the first Swallows (Hirondelle rustique) (Rauchschwalbe) , 1 RLB and a Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) (Bruchwasserläufer). At 10 pm one Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) (Seidenschwanz) SW Kemijärvi and an Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) (Fischadler) above a river. And a female Elk (Moose) near Karhujärvi, the Bears' Lake.
Night in car on Kontainen Hill near Ruka/Finland.
Thu 24th
No birds on Kontainen but a Great Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche grise) (Raubwürger) near Rukajärvi. And the first Sparrowhawk (Épervier d'Europe) (Sperber) near Mustovaara.
I arrive at the Wild Brown Bear Centre in Martinselkonen, take a room an have an afternoon nap. Lunch at 3 pm, then off we go to a hide by a big pond in the middle of the Taiga, a few hundred yards from the Russian border. 5 mins. after Janni, the guide, has left, the first of 11 or 12 Brown Bears arrives, looking for dog biscuits in the grass. Some gulls, even Lesser black-backed gulls (Goéland brun) (Heringsmöwe), 1 Black Kite (Milan noir) (Schwarzmilan), rare in the North, a Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) (Bruchwasserläufer) and a Greenshank (Chevalier aboyeur) (Grünschenkel) around the Lake. And the bear ballet goes on with up to 7 bears simultaneously. One young female has 3 small cubs that come as close as 7 ft. from the hide, anothe huge old femal has a one-year old cub that cheekily attacks a much bigger bear and plays with it. His elder brother or sister? But the mother does not like it and chases away the intruder. Incredible how fast a bear can run. Never run away from a bear; you have NO chance!
Sat 26th
I spend the night at my friend Ove's in Kalix. At 00h30 a.m., a woodcock (Bécasse des bois) (Waldschnepfe) displays over the house. In the evening, 5 Lesser white-fronted Geese (Oie naine) (Zwerggans) in Hudiksvall on their traditional moulting place. Very few but it may be a good sign when all the others (there may be about 200 in sweden now) have found a mate and are reproducing in Lapland.
Not a very long trip report like last year, but I am certain to come back to this godforsaken but stunning place at the top of the Varanger peninsula. Reading or listening to Bach when it rains....
1 Red-throated Diver (Plongeon catmarin) Sterntaucher 2
2 Black-throated Diver (Plongeon arctique) Prachttaucher 2
3 White-billed Diver (Plongeon à bec blanc) Gelbschnabeltaucher 1
4 Northern Fulmar (Fulmar boréal) Eissturmvogel 1
5 Northern Gannet (Fou de Bassan) Basstölpel 1
6 Whooper Swan (Cygne chanteur) Singschwan 1
7 Tundra Bean Goose (Oie des moissons) Tundrasaatgans 1
8 Lesser White-fronted Goose (Oie naine) Zwerggans 1
9 Barnacle Goose (Bernache nonnette) Weißwangengans 1
10 Greater Scaup (Fuligule milouinan) Bergente 1
11 Long-tailed Duck (Harelde boréale) Eisente 3
12 Black Kite (Milan noir) Schwarzmilan 1
13 White-tailed Eagle (Pygargue à queue blanche) Seeadler 2
14 Northern Sparrowhawk (Épervier d'Europe) Sperber 1
15 Rough-legged Buzzard (Buse pattue) Raufußbussard 4
16 Osprey (Balbuzard pêcheur) Fischadler 1
17 Merlin (Faucon émerillon) Merlin 1
18 Gyr Falcon (Faucon gerfaut) Gerfalke 2
19 Willow Grouse (Lagopède des saules) Moorschneehuhn 1
20 Rock Ptarmigan (Lagopède alpin) Alpenschneehuhn 2
21 Common Crane (Grue cendrée) Kranich 1
22 Eurasian Oystercatcher (Huîtrier pie) Austernfischer 1
23 Eurasian Dotterel (Pluvier guignard) Mornellregenpfeifer 21
24 European Golden Plover (Pluvier doré) Goldregenpfeifer 1
25 Temminck's Stint (Bécasseau de Temminck) Temminckstrandläufer 1
26 Purple Sandpiper (Bécasseau violet) Meerstrandläufer 6
27 Dunlin (Bécasseau variable) Alpenstrandläufer 3
28 Ruff (Combattant varié) Kampfläufer 2
29 Common Snipe (Bécassine des marais) Bekassine 1
30 Great Snipe (Bécassine double) Doppelschnepfe 1
31 Eurasian Woodcock (Bécasse des bois) Waldschnepfe 1
32 Eurasian Curlew (Courlis cendré) Großer Brachvogel 1
33 Spotted Redshank (Chevalier arlequin) Dunkler Wasserläufer 1
34 Common Greenshank (Chevalier aboyeur) Grünschenkel 1
35 Wood Sandpiper (Chevalier sylvain) Bruchwasserläufer 2
36 Terek Sandpiper (Chevalier bargette) Terekwasserläufer 1
37 Ruddy Turnstone (Tournepierre à collier) Steinwälzer 5
38 Red-necked Phalarope (Phalarope à bec étroit) Odinshühnchen 4
39 Arctic Skua (Labbe parasite) Schmarotzerraubmöwe 7
40 Long-tailed Skua (Labbe à longue queue) Falkenraubmöwe 6
41 Lesser Black-backed Gull (Goéland brun) Heringsmöwe 1
42 Glaucous Gull (Goéland bourgmestre) Eismöwe 2
43 Black-legged Kittiwake (Mouette tridactyle) Dreizehenmöwe 1
44 Common Tern (Sterne pierregarin) Flussseeschwalbe 1
45 Arctic Tern (Sterne arctique) Küstenseeschwalbe 1
46 Black Guillemot (Guillemot à miroir) Gryllteiste 1
48 Three-toed Woodpecker (Pic tridactyle) Dreizehenspecht 1
49 Barn Swallow (Hirondelle rustique) Rauchschwalbe 1
50 Meadow Pipit (Pipit farlouse) Wiesenpieper 1
47 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col) Ohrenlerche 4
51 Red-throated Pipit (Pipit à gorge rousse) Rotkehlpieper 3
52 Water Pipit (Pipit spioncelle) Bergpieper 1
53 Yellow Wagtail (Bergeronnette printanière) Schafstelze 1
54 Bohemian Waxwing (Jaseur boréal) Seidenschwanz 1
55 Bluethroat (Gorgebleue à miroir) Blaukehlchen 1
56 Greenish Warbler (Pouillot verdâtre) Grünlaubsänger 1
57 Pied Flycatcher (Gobemouche noir) Trauerschnäpper 1
58 Siberian Tit (Mésange lapone) Lapplandmeise 1
59 Great Grey Shrike (Pie-grièche grise) Raubwürger 1
60 Common Raven (Grand Corbeau) Kolkrabe 1
61 Brambling (Pinson du Nord) Bergfink 1
62 Greenfinch (Verdier d'Europe) Grünfink 1
63 Twite (Linotte à bec jaune) Berghänfling 2
64 Common Redpoll (Sizerin flammé) Birkenzeisig 1
65 Pine Grosbeak (Durbec des sapins) Hakengimpel 1
66 Northern Bullfinch (Bouvreuil pivoine) Gimpel 1
67 Lapland Bunting (Bruant lapon) Spornammer 4
68 Snow Bunting (Bruant des neiges) Schneeammer 5
69 Rustic Bunting (Bruant rustique) Waldammer 1
70 Little Bunting (Bruant nain) Zwergammer 1
1 Red-throated Diver Plongeon catmarin 3
2 Black-throated Diver Plongeon arctique 3
3 White-billed Diver Plongeon à bec blanc 2
4 Northern Fulmar Fulmar boréal 2
5 Northern Gannet Fou de Bassan 2
6 Whooper Swan Cygne chanteur 2
7 Tundra Bean Goose 2
8 Lesser White-fronted Goose Oie naine 2
9 Brent Goose Bernache cravant 2
10 Greater Scaup Fuligule milouinan 2
11 Long-tailed Duck Harelde boréale 4
12 Black Kite Milan noir 2
13 White-tailed Eagle Pygargue à queue blanche 3
14 Northern Sparrowhawk Épervier d'Europe 2
15 Rough-legged Buzzard Buse pattue 5
16 Osprey Balbuzard pêcheur 2
17 Merlin Faucon émerillon 4
18 Gyr Falcon Faucon gerfaut 3
19 Willow Grouse Lagopède des saules 2
20 Rock Ptarmigan Lagopède alpin 3
21 Common Crane Grue cendrée 2
22 Eurasian Oystercatcher Huîtrier pie 2
23 Eurasian Dotterel Pluvier guignard 22
24 European Golden Plover Pluvier doré 2
25 Temminck's Stint Bécasseau de Temminck 2
26 Purple Sandpiper Bécasseau violet 7
27 Dunlin Bécasseau variable 4
28 Ruff Combattant varié 3
29 Common Snipe Bécassine des marais 2
30 Great Snipe Bécassine double 2
31 Eurasian Woodcock Bécasse des bois 2
32 Eurasian Curlew Courlis cendré 2
33 Spotted Redshank Chevalier arlequin 2
34 Common Greenshank Chevalier aboyeur 2
35 Wood Sandpiper Chevalier sylvain 3
36 Terek Sandpiper Chevalier bargette 2
37 Ruddy Turnstone Tournepierre à collier 6
38 Red-necked Phalarope Phalarope à bec étroit 5
39 Arctic Skua Labbe parasite 8
40 Long-tailed Skua Labbe à longue queue 7
41 Lesser Black-backed Gull Goéland brun 2
42 Glaucous Gull Goéland bourgmestre 3
43 Black-legged Kittiwake Mouette tridactyle 2
44 Common Tern Sterne pierregarin 2
45 Arctic Tern Sterne arctique 2
46 Black Guillemot Guillemot à miroir 2
47 2
48 Three-toed Woodpecker Pic tridactyle 2
49 Barn Swallow Hirondelle rustique 2
50 Meadow Pipit Pipit farlouse 2
51 Red-throated Pipit Pipit à gorge rousse 4
52 Water Pipit Pipit spioncelle 2
53 Yellow Wagtail Bergeronnette printanière 2
54 Bohemian Waxwing Jaseur boréal 2
55 Bluethroat Gorgebleue à miroir 2
56 Greenish Warbler Pouillot verdâtre 2
57 Pied Flycatcher Gobemouche noir 2
58 Siberian Tit Mésange lapone 2
59 Great Grey Shrike Pie-grièche grise 2
60 Common Raven Grand Corbeau 2
61 Brambling Pinson du Nord 2
62 Greenfinch Verdier d'Europe 2
63 Twite Linotte à bec jaune 3
64 Common Redpoll Sizerin flammé 2
65 Pine Grosbeak Durbec des sapins 2
66 Northern Bullfinch Bouvreuil pivoine 2
67 Lapland Bunting Bruant lapon 5
68 Snow Bunting Bruant des neiges 6
69 Rustic Bunting Bruant rustique 2
70 Little Bunting Bruant nain 2
47 Shorelark (Alouette hausse-col) Ohrenlerche
